Completando y cerrando el casco.

Seguimos colocando tiras…… poco a poco. Sin prisa pero sin pausa.

Cada tira precisa de una inclinación de bisel concreta, e incluso cada bisel va variando de ángulo según va recorriendo el casco. Por esta razón, ayuda mucho al trabajo numerar las tiras a la altura de cada cuaderna para de esta forma cepillar en el punto concreto que previamente hemos calculado al presentar la tira sobre la anterior.

Según vamos avanzando y cerrando el casco, las tiras cada vez serán mas cortas y no tendremos necesidad de hacer uniones. Las uniones tiene la ventaja de que nos permiten acoplar mejor las tiras en su anclaje final en proa y popa ya que acoplamos la tira al punto final de proa o popa y luego hacemos la unión cerca del centro del casco. Los acoples de proa y popa suelen ser más complejos en algunos puntos y si acoplamos en proa y luego intentamos acoplar en popa (por ejemplo) es muy posible que la tira se nos quede corta; ésta es la ventaja que nos aporta al trabajo la unión. Las uniones es mejor hacerlas con corte “a inglete” o sea 45º. Quedan más fuertes y bonitas.

Yo no veo poco estéticas las uniones, más bien al contrario : las uniones dejan ver el trabajo realizado. Eso sí, cuando realicemos estas uniones es interesante que no estén muy cerca las unas de las otras ya que esto si que resulta poco estético. Esta es la razón por la que trabajar con tiras de distinto largo es interesante…o las vamos cortando claro!.

Las tiras que terminan de cerrar completamente el casco son afiladas y complejas. Es buen truco presentar la tira encima del hueco y con un lápiz trazarla por debajo; esto nos ayudará bastante a la hora de hacer un ajuste de calidad y ….bueno, casco cerrado! Este punto del trabajo es muy satisfactorio ya que podemos empezamos a intuir lo que será nuestro kayak!!

Pasamos a cepillar todo el casco ayudados por un cepillo metálico de precisión. Un cepillo pequeño de testas y un bastrén son de gran ayuda. Por suerte, cepillar el casco por fuera es más fácil que por dentro…ya llegaremos a este punto!.

Después de cepillar y antes de emprender el lijado es el momento (al menos yo lo creo así) de colocar los refuerzos de proa y de popa.

Podemos recortarlos de una pieza de madera e ir ajustándolos a la forma o (como yo prefiero hacer) cortar un conjunto de tiras finas de madera dura 1,5 a 2mm para que tengan suficiente flexibilidad y se adapten a la forma de la proa y de la popa. Las impregnamos de cola y ayudados sobre todo de cinta de embalar, las apretamos contra la proa y popa. Previamente hemos aplanado estas zonas para crearle una “cama” plana y lisa a las tiras de madera. Esto seria un refuerzo laminado.

Un buen truco es perforar las tiras en una punta y asar un pequeño cabo y atarlo para que al apretarlas con la cinta de embalar no patinen demasiado.

Una vez seco, cepillamos y damos forma a los refuerzos y empezamos a lijar. Un útil casero consistente en una tabla con unos mangos sobre la cual fijamos la lija (siempre lija de calidad con base tela) es ideal para lijar en desbaste con lija grano 80. De esta forma eliminaremos los bultos y hoyos del casco.

Volveremos a lijar empleando lijas mas finas de 100-120 ya con un corcho como soporte de la lija. Otro extraordinario y muy recomendable truco es aplicar una mano de agua después de lijar con grano 120, esto por un lado nos levantará el repelo que luego eliminaremos con lija algo más fina de 150: el agua nos delatará los restos de cola que no fuimos capaces de eliminar con la lija. Cuando el casco esté mojado, marcaremos las posibles manchas de cola con un lápiz blando para no arañar la madera, de esta forma una vez seco el casco encontraremos las manchas con facilidad para poder eliminarlas.

Ahora toca laminar!!!.

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